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Jack Martin

Colourist based in the Golden State who focuses on silver hair. He works with Hollywood stars and well-known figures.

Which budget-friendly product is a must-have?

My top pick is a soft fabric towel, or even a gentle tee to remove moisture from your strands. Most people don’t realise how much damage a typical terrycloth towel can do, particularly for lightened or dyed strands. A simple switch can really reduce frizz and breakage. Another inexpensive must-have is a broad-toothed comb, to use in the shower. It protects the hair while smoothing out tangles and helps maintain the integrity of the individual hairs, particularly post-bleaching.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

A professional-grade heat styling tool – made with advanced materials, with adjustable temperature options. Grey and blonde hair can yellow or burn easily without the right iron.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Self-applied color lifting. Internet videos often simplify it, but the reality is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. I’ve witnessed clients severely damage their locks, break it off or end up with bands of colour that are nearly impossible to correct. I would also avoid keratin or permanent straightening treatments on pre-lightened strands. These formulations are often overly harsh for weakened hair and can cause long-term damage or undesired tones.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

People using the wrong products for their specific hair needs. Some overuse colour-correcting purple shampoo until their silver or blond hair looks lifeless and muted. Some depend excessively on high-protein masks and end up with stiff, brittle hair. Another significant problem is thermal styling minus a barrier. When applying styling appliances without a protective product, – particularly on bleached locks – you’re going to see discoloration, dehydration and damage.

Which product, treatment or supplement would you recommend for hair loss?

Thinning requires a comprehensive strategy. Externally, minoxidil remains a top choice. My advice includes scalp formulas with active ingredients to stimulate circulation and aid in hair growth. Using a scalp detox shampoo weekly helps remove residue and allows solutions to be more efficient. Supplements such as Nutrafol or Viviscal Pro have also shown great results. They work internally to benefit externally by addressing hormonal imbalances, stress and dietary insufficiencies.

For those seeking higher-level solutions, platelet-rich plasma treatments – where a personalized serum is applied – can be successful. That said, I always suggest seeing a dermatologist or trichologist first. Thinning can be linked to medical conditions, and it’s important to get to the root cause rather than seeking quick fixes.

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Anabel Kingsley

Trichologist and brand president of Philip Kingsley services and items for shedding.

How frequently do you schedule salon visits?

I schedule cuts every ten to twelve weeks, but will remove split ends personally bi-weekly to maintain tip integrity, and have color touches every two months.

What affordable find is essential?

Building fibers are absolutely amazing if you have areas of scalp visibility. The fibres cling electrostatically to your own hair, and it comes in a range of colors, making it virtually undetectable. It was my go-to post-pregnancy when I had significant shedding – and also now while experiencing some significant shedding after having a severe illness recently. As hair isn’t an essential tissue, it’s the earliest indicator of health issues when your diet is lacking, so I would also recommend a balanced, nutritious diet.

What justifies a higher investment?

If you have female pattern hair loss (FPHL), I’d say doctor-recommended solutions. Regarding increased shedding, or telogen effluvium, buying an over-the-counter product is fine, but for FPHL you really do need clinical interventions to see the most effective improvements. From my perspective, minoxidil combined with additional ingredients – such as balancing elements, inhibitors and/or calming components – works best.

What should you always skip?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It's ineffective. This idea originated from a limited 2015 research that compared the effects of a low-dose minoxidil with rosemary oil. A low concentration like 2% is insufficient to do much for genetic balding in men, so the study is basically saying they provide similarly low results.

Likewise, mega-doses of biotin. Hardly anyone is biotin deficient, so consuming it probably won't help your locks, and it can alter thyroid level measurements.

Which error is most frequent?

In my view, we should rename "hair washing" to "scalp cleaning" – because the primary purpose of washing is to remove buildup, flakes, perspiration and dirt. I see people avoiding shampooing as they think it’s harmful to their strands, when in fact the contrary is accurate – particularly with flaky scalp, which is intensified by sebum accumulation. If oils are left on your scalp, they decompose and cause irritation.

Unfortunately, what your scalp needs and what your hair likes don’t always align, so it’s a delicate equilibrium. Provided you wash delicately and manage wet locks gently, it won’t be damaging to your strands.

What solutions do you suggest for thinning?

For FPHL, your core treatment should be minoxidil. It has the most robust evidence behind it and tends to be most effective combined with additional ingredients. If you then want to try other things to support minoxidil’s effect, or you prefer not to use it or are unable, you could try micro-needling (under professional care), and perhaps PRP or low-level laser therapy.

For TE, you need to do some detective work. Increased hair loss often stems from an underlying issue. Occasionally, the reason is temporary – such as illness, infection or high stress – and it will improve spontaneously. Alternatively, endocrine issues or nutrient shortages may be the cause – the frequent culprits include iron stores, B12 and D insufficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus